Monday, August 18, 2014

Grey Hooded Dress





Ever since I saw this picture on Mookychick (http://www.mookychick.co.uk/indie-fashion/gothic/white-goth-clothing.php) I've wanted to make a hooded dress. It's such a great concept: practicality meets cuteness. I also had some patterns that were perfect e.g. Burda's Danielle Pattern http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/danielle

Initially I wanted to make a white dress, similar to the one in the photo, but I had absolutely no luck finding suitable material. I looked at so many different white pieces of cloth, then I stumbled upon this strange material on the clearance table. I don't even know what kind of material it is.

It's very stretchy but also seems to be woven, and frays a lot. It has a texture like brushed cotton on one side. The material also has an ombre effect, going from light to dark grey/purple (actually, it's a grey similar to the colour of Homura's skirt in Puella Magi Madoka Magica). It's very comfortable against the skin, and I like the pattern. It was something like 8 Euro for two generously sized pieces, which is a bargain in my book.

I used McCalls 4491 (I think) for this pattern. 4491 is actually a Medieval style dress, but it has a gorgeous princess seam. The trouble is that it is actually much larger than the sizes states, so I had to take it in by at least 10cm on each side. Crazy alterations aside, it has a lovely shape.  

After sewing the seams, I altered the neckline. I sewed the side seams last because I wanted to add pockets (what's the point of a dress without pockets?). Once the pockets were in I sewed up the side seams and finished all the edges with a zigzag stitch. The dress was too long, so I took it up and hemmed it so it's now just above my knees.

The next step was one that I forgot to photograph. I needed to finish the neckline and armholes. The armholes were simple enough. I made some bias tape and sewed it around them. I tried to do the same with the neckline, but disaster struck. The neckline went all wavy and looked stretched out and nasty. I rescued it by turning it under and hand sewing it down. It now looks a lot neater.

The last step was adding a hood. I traced one from a hoody and cut it out. I placed the hood pieces right sides together and sewed them, leaving a small gap. I turned the hood right sides out, sewed the gap shut, and top-stitched to keep everything in place. Finally I used snaps to attach it to the dress, so I have the option of wearing it without a hood.
I'm very pleased with the final dress. It looks smart and really suits me. I do want to know what went wrong with the neckline, and why it went all wavy when I sewed on the bias tape. If anyone has any tips, please share them with me. 






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