Monday, April 13, 2015

Sakizo's Juliet: Part 6: Sleeves

So the sleeves are done. The only parts of the costume remaining are accessories, but i doubt I'll be able to finish anything else in time for Medieval Mdina, so that will have to wait.
The first strep was making these sleeve caps out of gold lace, white satin, and interfacing. I also basted on the velvet and satin tabs. This makes them easier to sew in.
The upper sleeve is a puff sleeve pattern (Burda's Danielle). I wish I'd made it a little wider, to be honest. I interfaced the stretch velvet, then drew and cut each sleeve. The next step was the tedious business of measuring the sleeve and dividing it into sections to decide where the sew all the embellishments. I had a limited amount of gold and white cord, so I only sewed on 5 lines of cord per sleeve.
The white puffy strips of material were made following the advice of DoxieQueen1's guide to sewing this costume. It involves cutting a strip of fabric, ironing the edges under, then gathering it at regular intervals.
To create double puffs, I sewed a thin piece of elastic to the middle of the sleeves, stretching as I sewed to gather it.
Here's what the unfinished upper sleeves looked like.

The next step was creating the lower sleeves. I measured my arm and made a simple pattern from the circumference of my elbow, the circumference of my hand (important so that your hand can fit through the sleeve) and the length I wanted the sleeve to be. Again I interfaced the velvet before cutting. Once the lower sleeve was cut, I ruffled strips of white stretch mesh (cut from an old apron I made a while ago) and sewed them on to the end of each sleeve. 

The gold decoration is actually a piece of lace that I cut up and used for applique. 

I sewed the lower sleeve to the upper sleeve, then sewed each sleeve into a tube. Finally I sewed them to the bodice. I want to take them off and reattach them in the future, as the gathering is too bulky under the arm and not puffy enough on top.
The lining of this costume is a disaster, but it looks pretty from the outside, so that's something.

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